A pocket square is a square cloth that fits snugly in the breast pocket of your jacket, providing a stylish hint of fabric peeking out to increase visual appeal. A pocket square is a low effort, subtle way to upgrade your outfit from "Typical" to ''Different".

Whether you’re a pocket square aficionado or just a dabbler in menswear trends, navigating the etiquette of this accessory can admittedly be a bit of a sartorial minefield so below we've set out our pocket square guide.

HOW TO WEAR A POCKET SQUARE:

General pocket square rules
Different pocket square styles
What colour pocket square to choose for an occasion
Should your square match, complement or contrast with your outfit?
Are you aiming for a smart or casual aesthetic, or mulling over what pocket square to wear at work?

WHEN TO WEAR A POCKET SQUARE

Historically, the pocket square was a necessity for guests attending dinner parties and other formal engagements. The classic pocket square fashion for smart occasions remains much the same today: a white, handkerchief-style pocket square folded into a flat fold (more on that later). However, even within the sphere of formal attire, there is still scope to experiment with your arrangement and move outside the standard white pocket square rule.

We are occasionally asked, is there ever a time not to wear a pocket square? The answer to that is not really. Once you become a regular square wearer you'll find that not wearing a square is like leaving the house without your shoes.

It's really a case of degrees. If you want to go for a very conservative look choose a pocket square that is only a shade or two lighter than your jacket and go for a flat fold, or something that provides just a little bit of contrast such as a grey textured pocket square below.

Tonal monochrome shades work well for pocket squares teamed with black or grey suits, for instance, while a vibrant pop of red adds interest to crisp blue suits. A puff fold can also offer a more nonchalant approach to formal dressing than the classic flat fold.

We like to keep a plain white pocket square for formal occasions, but a square that is predominately white with either a coloured edging or light pattern provides a relatively conservative look that will work in all business environments.

A well-cut suit or jacket certainly makes a strong statement about a man, but to really stand out, it's your accessories that really make all the difference. Just look at the difference the humble pocket square can add to a relatively simple jacket. Not a flamboyant colour combination or fold, but a subtle accent featuring our mustard pocket square that works perfectly in the work environment.

MATCHING TIE AND POCKET SQUARE

One question we often get asked is whether you should be matching your tie and pocket square. The short answer is no. Although it might seem like an easy way to coordinate your outfit, matching your pocket square and tie or bow tie is a definite no-no in modern dress.

Instead, the purpose of the pocket square is to complement the rest of your look: either by harmonising or contrasting with your other accessories. So although some stores even offer matching tie and pocket square sets, our advice is to steer clear of these if you want to be seen to be on top of your style game.

If your pocket square has a pattern or print, for example, then pick a colour from that palette to bring your look together and match it to a primary colour in your ties such as in the image below.

Equally, you could choose a pocket square that is a shade lighter or darker than the core colour of your ensemble. Remember, it’s all in the detail, so don’t be afraid to bring out an accent colour on a subtle pinstripe or checked shirt.

Below are some examples of tie and pocket square combinations using three of the most popular jacket colours of navy, grey and brown. Firstly, we will start with navy. The combinations range from a very subtle complementary colour matching in the first image through to more obviously paired colours in the second and third images.

POCKET SQUARE RULES

Below is a handy pocket square guide when choosing your pocket square:

Choose a secondary colour from your shirt or tie as the primary colour for your pocket square
Don't overdo the patterns, ensure some articles of clothing are flat colours which will accentuate the colours in your pocket square or tie
Don't directly match your tie and pocket square
Match your fold to the occasion. For formal occasions stick to the flat fold or one or two point folds, for more casual occasions use some more flare with the classic puff fold or one of the more flamboyant fold as set out below.
White pocket square rules; for the most part, there are no rules. White pocket squares work with every jacket and tie combination and colour so you can never really get it wrong with a white pocket square.

HOW TO FOLD A POCKET SQUARE

Below are 9 ways to fold a pocket square, in order from the most conservative to the most flamboyant.

As a general rule of thumb, there are no distinct pocket square rules for a when pairing your pocket square with a suit relative to wearing a sports jacket or blazer. However, there are a couple of things to keep in mind.

Firstly, a suit is a more formal option than a stand-alone jacket, therefore you will often be wearing it in a more formal environment. Therefore, the safest choice is to wear a plain or very lightly patterned square like the one below.

The next thing to consider is the pattern of the suit. Depending on your own personal style, if you choose to go for a more vibrant pattern with your suit then the more formal etiquette would be to go for a plainer pocket square design to provide balance.

Finally, there is the more flamboyant look, where the accessories are contrasting against the suit colour. In the below, you have a grey checkered suit with the small hint of burgundy in the pocket square complementing the tie. This style is our favourite look for a suit, where it's not over the top, but definitely displays a sartorial flair to leave a lasting impression.

In short, we at SuitYourself believe that the pocket square offers an incredibly versatile accessory option; allowing modern men to express themselves and vary their look without having to invest in different suits and outerwear.

Book an appointment with us and our style guides will be happy to advise on the pairing of your accessories with your suit!

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