Welcome to Shirts 101, starting with the different types of collars and how small details like this can optimize your features.

Here’s a breakdown of the different types of collars you can choose from to make sure your shirt is just how you like it.

For a Rounder Face: The Classic Collar

The Classic Collar: A rounder face is best complimented by the longer collar point length of the classic collar as this can have a visually slimmer effect.

The straight point collar features collar points that finish from 1.5″-3.5″ from one another. There is less room between the collar leafs than in a spread collar, which means it’ll accommodate a slimmer tie knot rather than a larger one.

For a Longer or Square-Shaped Face: The Spread Collar

The Spread Collar: Those with longer, thinner faces might want a collar that will visually widen their face. If you have a diamond or square-shaped face, try a spread collar with a wide knot to soften your face’s angular edges.

Generally associated with bespoke and made-to-measure shirts, these collars get their names for just that, the wide spread between their collar points. This spread collar style allows for any type of tie knot to be worn with it, though the Windsor knot is the most common. The spread collar is appropriate for both formal and casual occasions. Spread collars are generally very versatile and can be worn easily with a jacket and tie or on their own.

The Sporty Choice: The Button-Down Collar

The Button-Down Collar: Invented by Brooks Brothers in 1896, the button-down collar features buttons that fasten the collar points of the shirt. This makes the collar lie flat. It’s usually seen as more of a sportier, casual look, so we recommend wearing it without a tie to highlight the use of buttons.

What’s more, avoid the button-down collar for weddings, funerals and other formal events because it still remains a more casual option and it just isn’t appropriate for those occasions.

The Purposeful Choice: The Wingtip Collar

The Wingtip Collar: The most formal collar option, the wingtip collar is made primarily to be worn with a bowtie and tuxedo. It got its name from the fold-out collar points, which look like wings.

The Adventurous Choice: The Mandarin Collar

The Mandarin Collar: The mandarin is a short, unfolded, stand-up collar style. It starts right at the neckline and rises vertically for a few centimeters. This collar style originated in the Manchurian area of Imperial China and has since become a fashion-forward choice for dress shirts and casual options. Keep in mind that the mandarin collar can’t be worn with a tie.

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How to Choose Shirt Collars that Work with Your Face Shape